Morning routine (when there’s surf and I’m not swamped with work):
- put kids on bus at 8:00 and talk about how the waves look with Roger the bus driver
- walk back to house
- put on wetsuit, grab towel, and fill up rinsing jug
- stuff food into mouth
- put surfboard on roof rack and tie down (if it isn’t already there)
- put neoprene cover on drivers seat
- drive to Long Sands
- wave to Roger checking surf before dropping off the bus
- surf
Roger beat me to the beach this day:
