With surfable waves in such close proximity, it was everything Andre could do to stay in bed until the sun came up.
When it did, though, it was straight to the beach. First to take pictures, then back with a surfboard, then back a third time for a run, usually, with Lynne and Pops.
(It took me a while to take this hat’s message to heart. But when I did: much less time rasslin’ the ol’ suit, much more time in the waves.)